Hey, everyone! I’m
writing this from an open green field at The Wines of San Juan in Turley, New
Mexico. We were not scheduled to be
here, but they rerouted us for three days due to the recent fires in
Colorado. The roads we would have
traveled are open to vehicle traffic but the air quality is too poor for us to
be biking there. Our ride today was
short—55 miles—but we stopped quite a bit and got to camp around 12:30. This place is in a lovely valley near the San
Juan River and is owned and operated by a former dairyman from Wisconsin. He gave free tours this afternoon where he
explained the wine-making process (and offered free tasting, of course). We are still using port-a-potties, but they
rigged up some pretty inventive outdoor showers using shower heads on the ends
of garden hoses inside a white canopy tent with separated “walls”. The water warmed up nicely in the hose, so we
didn’t have cold showers!
We were up at 4:15 and ready to leave camp at sunup this
morning at about 6:00 a.m. This was the scenery behind us as we left Shiprock.
We took a
detour through Farmington in hopes of finding a bike shop open, but they didn’t
open until 10:00. We also stopped at a
museum called Salmon Ruins, which had artifacts from Native American Ruins. We also stopped at an Ace Hardware store to
look for a screw for Rudy’s bike seat.
He noticed Saturday afternoon at one of our stops that his seat was
wobbly. His investigation showed that
one of the two screws that holds his seat onto the frame had fallen out and the
other one was lose. Uh. Oh-oh.
We tightened up the remaining screw and made it to the end of the
century ride just fine. We couldn’t
fine a replacement in Shiprock over the weekend, so we were glad to find the
exact screw—diameter, length, thread length and allen-wrench top—at the store
this morning.
All those stops made for slow progress, but we got here!
I’ll make a few comments about our stay at Bethel Christian
Reformed Church yesterday. Shiprock is
on the Navajo Reservation, and most of the church members are Navajo. The pastor has been there for 17 years and is
Caucasian. When he told us what to
expect from our stay and the worship service, he said that the morning service
started at 10-ish. Sounds like another
church I know of. J He also told us to expect the service to
last an hour and 45 minutes. They love
to sing! Many of the church members
formed a choir to sing for us. In the
evening service, Sea to Sea people read various scripture passages and we sang
most of the songs in Navajo. I was
secretly hoping we would sing “Jesus Loves Me” in Navajo because I learned this
song in 3rd grade from Miss Van Engen, who had taught in Rehoboth
prior to Ireton Christian School. And
what do you know, but we did get to sing that song and I knew all the
words! What an enjoyable flash from the
past!
Before the evening service started, I asked the lady sitting
near me where the nearest store was to buy some chapstick and camera
batteries. She told me which direction
to go from the church, and I asked, “Can I walk there?” She replied, “No, IT’S TOO HOT!” She offered to bring me to the store. I was so grateful for her generosity. I then had a chance to talk to her a little
bit. She is a grandma whose daughter and
three children have moved in to live with her and her husband because the
daughter couldn’t afford her apartment rent.
I asked if her grandchildren were learning the Navajo language and she
said, sadly, that they were not. It’s a
hard language to learn. She said that
some of her own kids could speak it, but others could only understand it but
not speak it themselves. It’s the same
thing that seems to happen with most immigrant families.
We have a couple tough days coming up tomorrow and Wednesday
with more miles, mountain passes, and warm (hot) temperatures. We’ll try to get an early start again.
It’s quite obvious that most of our ride this morning was
off the Reservation. There were more
stores, more irrigation, and the general appearance of a higher standard of
living. It struck me that the past
several days we could have called our tour:
Sea to Sea—Cycling to See
Poverty.